Women's Fashion
(Photo Archive)

Women's Fashion - 1860

During the eighteenth century, the women of New Mexico wore items like La Mantilla, El Manton De Manila, combs, and filigree jewelry. The rest of the women of the civilized world were wearing large fancy hats that were out of style and depended on their economic status in life.

El Manton De Manila is an embroidered silk crepe shawl; it is a product of China and was imported to Spain from Manila. These mantones come in diverse colors, including white and silk crepe with multi-colored flowers; but birds and fauna are the most prevalent designs. Numerous mantones are listed in the wills of families which have been recorded. To this day, Mantones de Manila are to be found in many homes of New Mexico women of Spanish ancestry and in the homes of those who have traveled to the Orient. Today, they are treasured more than ever for they are no longer manufactured. (Carmen Espinosa, “Shawls, Crinolines Filigree,” THE DRESS AND ADORNMENT OF THE WOMEN OF NEW MEXICO 1739 to 1900, Texas Western Press, 1970, pp. 1-3.)

La Mantilla was the attire of Spanish women and merits special attention. The lace scarf held up by the comb enhances any face, be it one of beauty or not. Lace has been used in Spain as an adornment since its earliest days. Lace of gold and silver has been produced in Spain for years and was used mainly by the clergy for altar decorations and by royalty and individuals of rank for dress and adornment. At the beginning of the eighteenth century, many lace factories were established in the cities of Catalina, Amagro en La Mancha, and Castilla La Vieja. Women of the provinces and ladies of rank have covered their head throughout the ages on all occasions, either with silk or velvet scarves, plain black or white materials, or with mantillas. In the making of the fine silk lace mantillas, raw silk is used. This becomes ivory in color as it ages. Mantillas should never be folded when putting them away because the silk will split with age. The best way to store it is to crush it and place it and in a cloth bag. As with the Manton de Manila, women of New Mexico cherish this article of wear as it is handed down from generation to generation. (Carmen Espinosa, “Shawls, Crinolines Filigree,”THE DRESS AND ADORNMENT OF THE WOMEN OF NEW MEXICO 1739 to 1900, Texas Western Press, 1970, pp. 1-3.)

La Peineta is a tall tortoise shell comb; it is essentially a purely Spanish feminine adornment. This came into general use when the mantilla became popular; thus, displaying the fine laces with grace and elegance. Combs of all kinds have been popular even before the mantilla came into use; combs were made of metal, ivory, gold, or silver. (Carmen Espinosa, “Shawls, Crinolines Filigree,” THE DRESS AND ADORNMENT OF THE WOMEN OF NEW MEXICO 1739 to 1900, Texas Western Press, 1970, pp. 1-3.)

“Tight waisted full skirted gowns became popular during the 1830’s and 1840’s, and women wore many petticoats under them. By the 1850’s, women wore stiff wire or whalebone petticoats called crinolines to support their skirts. Earlier types of crinolines were underskirts made partly of horsehair. By the 1870’s, full-skirted dresses gave way to bustle gowns.” (Mary Ellen Roach, “Clothing,” WORLD BOOK ENCYCLOPEDIA, Vol. 4, 1990, p. 702.)

Filigree jewelry of the 1860’s was made in New Mexico. Workers of note in the 1800’s included Rafeal Luna (1804-1840), and Antonio Jose Luna (1882-1899), son of Rafeal. Antonio taught his sister, Hilaria, who at the age of 60 was still working the craft; although because her sight was failing, her work was not as perfect as in previous years. Jose Rafeal Luna and his nephew and Felipe Guaman continued the family tradition. These craftsmen were all vecinos of Taos, New Mexico. Jose Rafeal moved to Velarde after discontinuing the craft because he suddenly became very ill with cancer and went into the fruit industry. (Carmen Espinosa, “Shawls, Crinolines Filigree,” THE DRESS AND ADORNMENT OF THE WOMEN OF NEW MEXICO 1739 to 1900, Texas Western Press, 1970, pp. 1-3.)

Prominent Santa Fe Family of the 1860's
Benigna Garcia de Delgado with daughters, Luz (standing) and Marcella (with hat), and infant son, Emilio. [Mrs. Delgado is the grandmother of Mrs. Frank V. Ortiz of Santa Fe]